{"id":"W4320917228","doi":"10.5114/jhk/159652","title":"Time Management Strategies of Rock Climbers in World Cup Bouldering Finals","year":2023,"lang":"en","type":"article","venue":"Journal of Human Kinetics","topic":"Sports injuries and prevention","field":"Medicine","cited_by":6,"is_retracted":false,"has_abstract":true,"ca_institutions":"University of Guelph","funders":"","keywords":"Climbing; Slab; Work (physics); Athletes; Operations research; Competition (biology); Geology; Computer science; Geography; Mathematics; Engineering; Medicine; Physical therapy; Archaeology; Mechanical engineering; Ecology","routes":{"ca_aff":true,"ca_fund":false,"ca_venue":false,"about_ca":false,"invisible_to_affiliation_only":false},"retraction":null,"screen":null,"direct_labels":[],"prediction":{"model_version":"codex-gemma-dda1882f352a","candidate_categories":[],"consensus_categories":[],"category_scores_codex":[0.0003182959,0.00007132502,0.0002499741,0.0004401104,0.00001776406,0.0000130724,0.00007012588,0.0000280588,0.0004371616],"category_scores_gemma":[0.000008855699,0.00006216297,0.00009991806,0.0002769479,0.0000221869,0.0000598696,0.00003236166,0.0001478269,0.00001047381],"about_ca_system_candidate":false,"about_ca_system_consensus":false,"about_ca_system_score_codex":0.00002997598,"about_ca_system_score_gemma":0.0000170988,"about_ca_topic_candidate":false,"about_ca_topic_consensus":false,"about_ca_topic_score_codex":0.000002974117,"about_ca_topic_score_gemma":0.00001202121,"domain_scores_codex":[0.9990014,0.00001468913,0.0005468905,0.0000596381,0.0002495216,0.0001277886],"domain_scores_gemma":[0.9994859,0.00001795711,0.0002849781,0.0001078566,0.00006208294,0.00004122081],"domain_codex":null,"domain_gemma":null,"domain_candidate":null,"domain_consensus":null,"study_design_codex":"not_applicable","study_design_gemma":"observational","study_design_scores_codex":[0.003492069,0.004852405,0.1557034,0.009689943,0.003244003,0.01280878,0.01285255,0.1171778,0.2067917,0.03233255,0.3666912,0.07436367],"study_design_scores_gemma":[0.004317534,0.002808819,0.9279271,0.003225849,0.0005359616,0.0001287884,0.005914911,0.0008303743,0.004933529,0.009000381,0.04008855,0.0002881917],"study_design_candidate":"observational","study_design_consensus":null,"genre_codex":"empirical","genre_gemma":"empirical","genre_scores_codex":[0.9877714,0.0001855207,0.00004164345,0.0002855746,0.0001285666,0.00009847338,9.305713e-7,0.00001011249,0.01147777],"genre_scores_gemma":[0.9920463,0.0001939463,0.0004485374,0.0000310144,0.0001181516,7.505732e-7,0.000004440847,0.00001148489,0.007145371],"genre_candidate":"empirical","genre_consensus":"empirical","teacher_disagreement_score":0.7722237,"threshold_uncertainty_score":0.4786613,"prediction_status":"machine_predicted_unvalidated"},"machine_scores":{"provisional":true,"baseline":true,"maturity_gate_passed":false,"score_opus":0.02475079064558921,"score_gpt":0.3377955411053089,"score_spread":0.3130447504597197,"validation_status":"score_only:v0-immature-baseline","note":"Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed). Scores rank; they never assert a category."}}