Fashion as Mood, Style as Atmosphere: Literary Non-Fiction on SSENSE and London Review of Looks
Why this work is in the frame
A frame that forgets how it found something cannot be audited. These are the routes that admitted this work.
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Amongst the discourses that describe, construct and critique fashion, one form, which we might deem a kind of literary non-fiction that attends to how fashion, dress and social moods entwine has thus far largely escaped scholarly notice. While fashion criticism often attends to the “moods” a collection addresses, this mode of writing, primarily circulated on digital platforms, considers how clothes place us as social, affective beings within culture and everyday life, and elucidates the ways fashion interacts with one’s person in fanciful and sensory ways. Written in response to its writer’s perspective and experience, such writing uses literary devices to render palpable what clothes do, how it feels to long for a garment or lose one’s taste for dress. In this way, it helps us to understand what an attunement to fashion and/or dress looks and feels like in practice. This chapter argues that this literary non-fiction writing on fashion and dress reveals how social moods and clothing interact. It primarily considers two contemporary examples: the fashion writing published by Montreal-based luxury e-tailer SSENSE and writer Ana Kinsella’s newsletter London Review of Looks.
Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.
Full frame distilled prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.
Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.002 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it