Notice bibliographique
Résumé
Over 20 years ago, The Museum at FIT received an anonymous gift of approximately 165 small textile samples and 27 scarves from the company, Wesley Simpson Custom Fabrics, Inc. The textiles dating from the late 1930s through the 1940s were designed for moderately priced women’s apparel. Printed on rayon crepe grounds, they were typical of the period, loose painterly florals, paisleys, conversationals, and small geometric, abstract and stripe patterns on light-colored grounds or discharge printed on dark grounds. The Metropolitan Museum of Art and The Brooklyn Museum of Art also have substantial holdings of Wesley Simpson Custom Fabrics, and an examination of all three institutions allows for a fairly comprehensive picture of the company. Fortuitously the textiles in the FIT collection were accompanied by a small archive of ads from newspapers and fashion magazines, promotional photographs and press clippings dating from 1944 to February 1949. What the press material revealed about the company was that spanning the immediate post-WWII period from 1945 to 1949, a concerted effort was made to bring the company’s name and its textiles to the attention of the American consumer. Promotional ads appeared in newspapers throughout the United States and Canada, linking the sale of Wesley Simpson Custom Fabrics with specific department stores. Ads appeared in The New York Sun, Indianapolis Star, the Atlanta Constitution, Los Angeles Examiner, the El Paso Dessert News, and The Gazette in Montreal—to name a few. Simpson’s strategy was to sell his textiles in one particular retail store in a given city. According to an industry publication, Retailing Home Furnishings, he had by March of 1947 a customer list of approximately 350 stores. The company’s rayon textiles were priced to appeal to the moderate market and sold in the home-sewing departments of stores for $1.19 to $3.98 a yard. In comparison, Simpson’s printed silks were $7.95 to $9.98 a yard in 1946. The press clippings offer an all too brief a glimpse into an American company. Where did Wesley Simpson Custom Fabrics, Inc. fit in the textile industry and where was his place between the manufacturers and converters of this period? More to the point, how long was the company in business? And what type of operation did Simpson run? Again the ads point the way, for they show an over-the-counter or retail business, selling yardage at economical prices, (as already mentioned), but there were also ads from Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Mademoiselle, Glamour, and American Fabrics, linking Simpson’s fabrics with many of the better American designers and dress houses, including Hattie Carnegie, Adrian, Tina Leser, Adele Simpson, Nettie Rosenstein, and Herbert Sondheim. There are other ads for a line of inexpensive furnishing fabrics that Simpson introduced in 1946. These were also sold by the yard, and as ready-made slipcovers, bedspreads and draperies for the newly emerging homeowner and her family.
Récupéré en direct depuis OpenAlex et désinversé. Les résumés ne sont pas conservés dans cette base de données : les index inversés représentent 8,6 Go des 9,3 Go de texte de la base, et le serveur dispose de 13 Go libres.
Comment cette classification a été obtenuedéplier
Prédiction machine sur la base complète
Imitation des enseignantsNi prévalence calibrée, ni vérité terrain. Validation humaine à venir. Le volet Gemma est une étiquette directe du modèle pour chaque travail de la base, lue sur la notice réduite au titre. Le volet Codex est un classifieur appris des 10 348 étiquettes directes de Codex et calibré sur les taux pondérés de l'échantillon; les champs sans appui suffisant ne portent aucun appel Codex. Le mode candidate est l'union des deux volets; le consensus est leur intersection. Ces sorties portent le statut machine_predicted_unvalidated et ne sont pas des étiquettes humaines.
Scores du classifieur distillé par catégorie (deux têtes)
| Catégorie | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Métarecherche | 0,001 | 0,003 |
| Méta-épidémiologie (sens strict) | 0,001 | 0,001 |
| Méta-épidémiologie (sens large) | 0,000 | 0,000 |
| Bibliométrie | 0,001 | 0,002 |
| Études des sciences et des technologies | 0,006 | 0,001 |
| Communication savante | 0,009 | 0,004 |
| Science ouverte | 0,001 | 0,003 |
| Intégrité de la recherche | 0,002 | 0,002 |
| Charge utile insuffisante (le modèle a refusé de juger) | 0,093 | 0,046 |
Scores machine (provisoires)
Les deux têtes enseignantes du modèle étudiant, lues sur ce travail. Un score ordonne la base pour la relecture; il n'affirme jamais une catégorie, et le statut de validation accompagne chaque rangée tel quel.
Scores de référence d'un modèle non mature (critères de maturité non atteints, 7 itérations). Un score ordonne; il n'affirme jamais une catégorie.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · tel quel depuis la passe de notation : score_only signifie que le nombre peut ordonner les travaux, et qu'aucune étiquette de catégorie n'en découleClassification
machine, non validéePrédiction automatique; un appel candidat d’une seule source (Gemma direct ou Codex distillé), pas un consensus.
Le détail, modèle par modèle et score par score, se trouve en fin de page sous « Comment cette classification a été obtenue ».