Race and beauty in Canada: print culture, retail, and the transnational flow of products, images and ideologies, 1700s to present
Notice bibliographique
Résumé
This dissertation is about race, class, gender, and the emergence of modern consumer capitalism. Using an historical approach, the project makes a link between transatlantic slavery, women's hair and beauty practices, and consumer culture. It pays particular attention to how black beauty and mainstream (read: white) beauty culture intersect, overlap, conflict, and mimic one another. Throughout this dissertation, I contextualize the growth and development of Canada's beauty culture by examining histories of migration and immigration to central and Atlantic Canada, and explain the rise of barbershops and hair salons in Toronto, Montreal, Halifax and Western Canada. I also examine the relationship between the sale of beauty products at retail and the visual representation of beauty in product advertising. Chapter one is an examination of Canada's colonial history of slavery, the advertisement of slave and runaway notices, the material conditions of black women's (and men's) labour, and the corporeality of the black female body with respect to hair care, dress, and resistance in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. I pinpoint the cultural significance of headwrapping and dress among black slave women, in addition to the colonial regulation of dress and self-care practices across the transatlantic. In chapters two and three, I give detailed accounts of the commercialization and commodification of mainstream beauty in North America, and explain the impact of late-nineteenth and early twentieth-century feminist movements, such as suffragism, temperance, dress reform, and the ideology and practices of the New Womanhood on the beauty ideal. Chapter four outlines the rise of advertisements for barbershops, hair salons, and beauty products in black Canadian newspapers in the 1920s through the 1940s. Chapter five explains how political movements of the 1960s such as second wave feminism and Black is Beautiful shifted the visualization of beauty and the politics attached to women's hair. In chapter six I deconstruct the role black community newspapers and Canadian women's magazines played in the promotion of beauty in the 1970s through the 1990s, and explain the ways in which skin and hair care products geared toward black women entered department stores and drugstores. Lastly, I argue that when Canadian magazines and advertisers began to perceive multiculturalism as a fashion aesthetic in the late-1980s, it raised questions about the diversification of the beauty standard and the issue of white bias. I also explore the contemporary health concerns associated with chemical hair straightening, hair weaves, and skin lightening products. This project makes a contribution to the study of Canada as it relates to slavery, consumer culture, European settlement, print media, and retail history. It also contributes to a wider understanding of the sociocultural, triangular relationship between the United States, Canada and the Caribbean.
Récupéré en direct depuis OpenAlex et désinversé. Les résumés ne sont pas conservés dans cette base de données : les index inversés représentent 8,6 Go des 9,3 Go de texte de la base, et le serveur dispose de 13 Go libres.
Comment cette classification a été obtenuedéplier
Prédiction machine sur la base complète
Imitation des enseignantsNi prévalence calibrée, ni vérité terrain. Validation humaine à venir. Le volet Gemma est une étiquette directe du modèle pour chaque travail de la base, lue sur la notice réduite au titre. Le volet Codex est un classifieur appris des 10 348 étiquettes directes de Codex et calibré sur les taux pondérés de l'échantillon; les champs sans appui suffisant ne portent aucun appel Codex. Le mode candidate est l'union des deux volets; le consensus est leur intersection. Ces sorties portent le statut machine_predicted_unvalidated et ne sont pas des étiquettes humaines.
Scores du classifieur distillé par catégorie (deux têtes)
| Catégorie | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Métarecherche | 0,001 | 0,002 |
| Méta-épidémiologie (sens strict) | 0,000 | 0,000 |
| Méta-épidémiologie (sens large) | 0,000 | 0,000 |
| Bibliométrie | 0,003 | 0,006 |
| Études des sciences et des technologies | 0,019 | 0,010 |
| Communication savante | 0,010 | 0,002 |
| Science ouverte | 0,001 | 0,002 |
| Intégrité de la recherche | 0,001 | 0,002 |
| Charge utile insuffisante (le modèle a refusé de juger) | 0,010 | 0,000 |
Scores machine (provisoires)
Les deux têtes enseignantes du modèle étudiant, lues sur ce travail. Un score ordonne la base pour la relecture; il n'affirme jamais une catégorie, et le statut de validation accompagne chaque rangée tel quel.
Scores de référence d'un modèle non mature (critères de maturité non atteints, 7 itérations). Un score ordonne; il n'affirme jamais une catégorie.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · tel quel depuis la passe de notation : score_only signifie que le nombre peut ordonner les travaux, et qu'aucune étiquette de catégorie n'en découleClassification
machine, non validéePrédiction automatique; un appel candidat d’une seule source (Gemma direct ou Codex distillé), pas un consensus.
Le détail, modèle par modèle et score par score, se trouve en fin de page sous « Comment cette classification a été obtenue ».