Abstracts of Papers: Textile Society of America 16th Biennial Symposium

Abstracts of 175 papers: Monisha Ahmed — The Kashmir / Cashmere Shawl – Tradition and Transformation Philis Alvic — Eliza Calvert Hall, The Handwoven Coverlet Book, and Collecting Coverlet Patterns in Early Twentieth Century Appalachia Sarah Amarica — Global Threads: Histories of Labour and Cloth in Ann Hamilton and Ibrahim Mahama’s Installation Art Lynne Anderson — Schoolgirl Embroideries: Integrating Indigenous Motifs, Materials, and Text Jennifer Angus — Education through Co-Design Margaret Olugbemisola Areo and Adebowale Biodun Areo — Egungun: Concept, Content and the Dynamic Contextual Manifestations of Yoruba Ancestors Masquerade Alison Ariss — Wrapped in Wool: Coast Salish wool weaving, Vancouver, and unceded territory Joanne Arnett — The Best Dressed Nun in the Room: A Capsule Wardrobe Project Janice Arnold — FELT: The Fabric of Community: 3 Stories of Community Building with Traditional Feltmaking Nicole Asselin — Making and Unmaking: Reimagining Textile Waste Through Biodesign Mary Babcock — Notions from the Pacific: Embracing entanglement Suzi Ballenger and Charlotte Hamlin — Yours, mine and ours. Annin Barrett — Timberline Lodge Textiles: Creating a Sense of Place Kathryn Berenson — Italian Bedfellows: Tristan, Solomon and "Bestes" Kathryn Berenson — A Medieval Political Hanging Alice Bernardo — Reconnecting Local Resources Magali Berthon — Artisans Angkor: Reviving Cambodian Silk Crafts under French Patronage Vandana Bhandari — Namvali Textiles of Rajasthan: Culture and Counterculture Katharine Bissett-Johnson — Co-creating Craft; Australian Designers meet Artisans in India Ines Bogensperger — Hellenization and Cultural Change: Textiles in Documentary Papyri from Greco-Roman Egypt Darden Bradshaw — Contemporary Chilean Arpilleras: Writing Visual Culture Stephanie Bunn — Basketry and the ‘glocal’. Grass, straw, heather, rattan, - what’s in a ‘local’ Scottish basket? Jennifer Byram — Reawakening Choctaw Traditional Textiles Dominique Cardon — Ancient Colours for Today’s Colorists and Designers Robin Caudell — Common Sense & Pin Money: The Material Culture and Legacy of Lula Annie Butler 1909-2009 Debbie Chachra and Caitrin Lynch — Behind the Curtain: Textile Provenance as a New Frontier in Ethical Apparel Angela Clarke — Women’s Work: The Art and Ritual of Textile Production in the Italian Community of Vancouver Ruth Clifford — Balancing local tradition and global influences: design and business education for handloom weavers in India Sarah Clugage — The Tent-Dweller: Visual Markers of Migration in Art Sarah Confer — Dynamic Cultural Preservation in Peru: global influences and local impacts on traditional Andean weaving Geraldine Craig — Ia and Tcheu: locating a contemporary Hmong aesthetic Yasmine Dabbous — Protection and empowerment: The dual role textiles play among the Syrian refugee community in Sonja Dahl — Whitework: The Cloth and the Call to Action MJ Daines — Collecting and Constructing: Anni Albers' migrant status and her interaction with indigenous textiles Jennifer Ling Datchuk and Anna Walker — The Personal is Political: Exploring Constructions of Identity in the Work of Jennifer Ling Datchuk Maggie D’Aversa — Resisting the Conversion of Silk Sutures to Synthetic Products in China. Is it cultural? Silvia Dolz — Fish in the desert - The North African textile tradition between indigenous identity and exogenous change in meaning Kelsie Doty — #NATURALDYE Penny Dransart — Mind’s Eye and Embodied Weaving: simultaneous contrasts of hue in Isluga textiles, northern Chile Eiluned Edwards — Handmade in India: re-branding Kachchhi block prints for global markets Eiluned Edwards — Samples from Sanganer: block prints commissioned for the Albert Hall Museum, Jaipur, India in 1899. Deborah Emmett — The embroidery artisans of the Kashmir Valley: cultural imports and exports from historical and contemporary perspectives. Åse Eriksen — The techniques of samitum, based on a reconstruction. — Joseph Fabish — Andamarcan Textiles Today: The Merging of Cultures Marianne Fairbanks — Weaving Lab: Public Production and Speculation Sarah Fee — The Origins of Chintz at the ROM: Collecting in the Name of Commerce Nancy Feldman — Shipibo Textiles 2010-2018: Artists of the Amazon Culturally Engaged, Deep Local to Pan Global Maria João Ferreira — Textiles, Trade and Taste Trish FitzSimons and Madelyn Shaw — The Fabric of War – The Global Trade in Australasian Wool from Crimea to Korea Trish FitzSimons and Madelyn Shaw — The Fabric of War – Wool and Local Land Wars in a Global Context Cynthia Fowler — Irish Identity in a Global Market: The Embroidered Landscapes of Lily Yeats Judy Frater — Closing the Power Gap Through Internet Technology: The Artisan View Maria Wronska-Friend — Batik of Java: global inspiration Paula Frisch — A Quilt for Now: My Patchwork Exploration of Safety, Threat & the Decisions We Make Dai Fujiwara — Color Hunting Julia Galliker — Ancient Textiles/Modern Hands: ‘Crowdsourcing’ Experimental Archaeology Through the Spiral Textile Project (spiraltextile.com) Medha Bhatt Ganguly — From the “Economic” to the “Symbolic”: The Journey of Trade beads from the Markets of Ujiji to the Dowries in Bead-work of Saurashtra — Xia Gao — Interweaving-Making Place and Place Making Surabi Ghosh — Carrying Cloth: Materials, Migration and Mediated Identity Denise Green — Mapping Regalia in Hupacasath Territory Rachel Green — Loss and Renewal: Chaguar Clothing of the Wichí of Argentina Gaby Greenlee — A Virgin Martyr in Indigenous Garb? A Curious Case of Andean Ancestry and Memorial Rites Recalled on a Christian Body Jane Groufsky — A Local Motif; Use of kōwhaiwhai patterns in printed textiles Louise Hamby — Milingimbi Artists Engagement with Koskela Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa — Looking at Coast Salish Textiles: Threads, twist and fibre Michele Hardy and Joanne Schmidt — Radical Access: Textiles and Museums Peter Harris and Showkat Ahmad Khan — Kashmir shawl weaving demonstration Joan Hart — The Deep Origins of Kashmir Shawls, Their Broad Dissemination and Changing Meaning Peggy Hart — Satinet, 1790-1860 Jana Hawley — Local Trash, Global Treasures Erica Hess — Developing Critical Understanding Through Design Anna Heywood-Jones — Tinctorial Cartographies: Plant, Dye and Place Donna Ho — Pajamas as (Banned) Streetwear in Shanghai: Local meets Global Jen Hoover — Shepherds and Shawls: Making Place in the Western Himalayas Laurel Horton — Dresden Embroidery in Early Kentucky Counterpanes Sylvia Houghteling — Kalamkari and Qalamkār-e Fārsī: A Continuous History of Cloth Connections between India and Iran I-Fen Huang — Local Crafts, World Exposition, and the Transformation of Embroidery in Early Twentieth Century China Jennifer Huang — Weaving Identities: Researching Atayal Textiles Barb Hunt — “Buttons all galore” – mother-of-pearl buttons as communication system Catherine Hunter — Indian Basketry in Yosemite Valley, 19th - 20th Century: Gertrude 'Cosie' Hutchings Mills, Tourists, and the National Park Service WhiteFeather Hunter — Biomateria; Biotextile Craft WhiteFeather Hunter — blóm + blóð Adil Iqbal — Cultivating Crafts: Weaving together Scottish and Pakistani narratives Adil Iqbal — Kasb-e-Hunar (Skilled Enclave) André Jackson — Self Identification Through Intersectionality: Turning Inward to Center, Normalize and Validate My Existence Carol James — Sprang Bonnets from Late Antique Egypt: Producer Knowledge and Exchange Through Experimental Reconstruction Donald Clay Johnson — Lucy Truman Aldrich, rebel collector of textiles Jess Jones — Lost Weavings of Atlanta: Mapping Historic Textile Works, Remnants, and Removals in Atlanta GA Lakshmi Kadambi — The Lambani Skirt Etsuko KageyamaNewly identified Iranian motif of silk textiles in Shōsōin storehouse in Japan Noelle Kahanu and Claire Regnault — He Makana Aloha: Co-curating memory, legacy and indigenous identity through the iconic Aloha Shirt Barbara Kahl — Using Invasive Species for Fiber and Dyeing: Controlling Weeds and Controlling Materials Costs for Artisans Elizabeth Kalbfleisch — Celebration or Craftsploitation? Cultural Diplomacy, Marketing and Coast Salish Knitting Jasleen Kandhari — The Kenyan Kanga Textile: Expressions of Swahili Identity and Cross Cultural Influences from India Miwa Kanetani and Ayami Nakatani — Unweaving textiles, disentangling ropes: Exploration of “lineware” as an analytical category Anjali Karolia and Jyoti Navlani — Balotra: the transforming journey for urban demands Anna Rose Keefe — Re-fashioning Newport: Reuse of Textiles during the Gilded Age Minjee Kim — Korean Patchwork Textiles: From Boudoir Craft to Global Collection Desiree Koslin — Pathfinding Restart: crossing tradition, activism and contemporaneity in Sami Art Sumru Krody — Occam’s Razor: Origins of a Classical Turkish Carpet Design Ashley Kubley — Lost Arts Found: Henequen Artisanship of the Modern Maya Ashley Kubley — Coarse Craft: An Investigation into the Re-emergence of Traditional Mayan Fiber Craftsmanship and Neo-Artisanal Culture in the Post-industrial Landscape of Yucatan Sabena Kull — A Seventeenth-century South American Hanging and Valance: Embroidering Imperial Power and Local Identity in Colonial Peru Eleanor Laughlin — The Beata’s Rebozo: A Garment of Religious Devotion and Freedom Margaret Leininger — India to Appalachia: How Cottage Industries Preserve Textile Heritage Beverly Lemire — Native American Embroidered Goods in the 19th-Century British Empire: Fashioning New Meanings Precious Lovell — Reinterpreting European Cloth Through Afro-Brazilian Culture Shannon Ludington — Embroidering Paradise: Suzanis As a Place of Creative Agency and Acculturation For Uzbek Women in 19th Century Bukhara Kristin Scheel — The meaning and purpose of ancient designs in today’s fashion designs – appropriation and power? Suzanne MacAulay — Hapsburg Eagles and Rattlesnakes: Localizing Embroidery Motifs on the Spanish Colonial Frontier Zone Dakota Mace — Woven Juxtaposition:

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