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Philanthropic Fashion: Ireland, 1887–1897

2014· article· en· W1984765571 on OpenAlexafffund
Janice Helland

Bibliographic record

VenueCostume · 2014
Typearticle
Languageen
FieldSocial Sciences
TopicIrish and British Studies
Canadian institutionsQueen's University
FundersSocial Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada
KeywordsIrishCraftExhibitionClothingNewspaperCeltic TigerEliteQueen (butterfly)AppealVisual artsArtCeltic languagesHistoryAncient historyLawPolitical sciencePoliticsArchaeology

Abstract

fetched live from OpenAlex

During the nineteenth century a number of aristocratic women promoted British-made textiles by wearing garments made from domestic cloth. Royalty, too, regularly endorsed this British-made cloth by wearing gowns of British manufacture frequently trimmed with English or Irish lace. Beginning in the late 1880s, however, a more organized and sophisticated relationship developed between Irish textiles and fashion and, by the 1890s, this link was both assiduously promoted and systematically marketed. The Irish Industries Association, founded by Ishbel, Countess of Aberdeen in 1886 to promote craft and alleviate poverty in Ireland, was supported by a number of British and Irish aristocrats. The Association organized exhibitions in London, established a rapport with women’s magazines, such as Lady’s Pictorial, Gentlewoman and Queen, The Lady’s Newspaper, and encouraged fashionable shops to view, buy and promote garments made from Irish wool, lace and linen. Thus Irish textiles moved from the Celtic fringe to the metropole, and from there on to the bodies of the rich and famous. It is this highly organized appeal to consumers that I shall explore here as philanthropy colluded with the market to produce fashion.

Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.

How this classification was reachedexpand

Full frame distilled prediction

Teacher imitation

Not calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.

metaresearch head score (Codex)0.000
metaresearch head score (Gemma)0.000
Version: codex-gemma-dda1882f352aValidation status: machine_predicted_unvalidated
Candidate categoriesnone
Consensus categoriesnone
DomainCandidate signal: none · Consensus signal: none
Study designCandidate signal: Not applicable · Consensus signal: Not applicable
GenreCandidate signal: Empirical · Consensus signal: none
Teacher disagreement score0.832
Threshold uncertainty score0.884

Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category

CategoryCodexGemma
Metaresearch0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (narrow)0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (broad)0.0000.000
Bibliometrics0.0000.000
Science and technology studies0.0010.000
Scholarly communication0.0000.000
Open science0.0000.000
Research integrity0.0000.000
Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)0.0000.001

Machine scores (provisional)

The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.

Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.

Opus teacher head0.018
GPT teacher head0.288
Teacher spread0.270 · how far apart the two teachers sit on this one work
Validation statusscore_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it

Classification

machine, unvalidated

Machine predicted; a candidate call from one teacher head, not a consensus.

The models applied no category: nothing in the taxonomy fit this work.
Study designNot applicable
Domainnot available
GenreEmpirical

How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".

Quick stats

Citations1
Published2014
Admission routes2
Has abstractyes

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