Crests on Cotton: “Souvenir” T‐Shirts and the Materiality of Remembrance Among the Kwakwaka'wakw of British Columbia
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Abstract This essay examines the production and circulation of printed T‐shirts as “souvenirs” within Kwakwaka'wakw (Kwakiutl) communities in British Columbia. Like button blankets in larger Northwest Coast cultures of visual display, such shirts are unique material forms that facilitate individual memories for specific events, collective family and village commemorations, and flexible affiliations at varying levels of identification. Drawing anthropological attention to the materiality of clothing as it mediates social relations, I address a mundane—if hallmark—form of modernity as it is indigenized within a micro‐economy of First Nations gift exchanges, fund‐raisers, and thrift stores, where it visually enables both the remembrance of local events and the re‐membering of social groups.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.001 | 0.002 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.002 | 0.002 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.008 | 0.005 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.004 | 0.001 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.002 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.007 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".