Bibliographic record
Abstract
We extended a recently developed model for wave–current interactions by Lin and Huang [1996a , 1996b] to simulate the impact of topography, currents, and slanting coastlines on sea state estimates. Our formulation uses the action conservation equation and the nonlinear dispersion relation, resulting in additional flux terms, ∂(cωA)/∂ω, A∂cgλ/∂λ, A∂(cgϕcos ϕ)/∂ϕ, and A∂cgθ/∂θ, compared to “standard” wave models such as WAM, where A is spectral action density, cω is phase velocity, and cgλ, cgϕ, and cgθ are group velocities. For large‐scale motions in deep water without varying currents, these effects may be neglected. However, for shallow estuary waters with varying currents, we show that these effects can cause as much as 25% variation in wave height estimates during moderate wind conditions. This phenomenon is consistent with observations and theory, for example, regarding isolated topography such as seamounts.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Research integrity | 0.002 | 0.001 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.002 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".