Simulations of Dissipative, Shore-Oblique Infragravity Waves
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Abstract A model of forced, dissipative shore-oblique shallow water waves predicts net cross-shore infragravity wave propagation, in qualitative agreement with field observations. Forcing applied near the shore generates edge waves, whose energy is mostly trapped shoreward of the edge wave turning point. Forcing applied sufficiently far seaward of the turning point generates only evanescent waves, whose energy decays almost exponentially with distance from regions of forcing. Weakly dissipative edge waves are nearly cross-shore standing, whereas strongly dissipative edge waves propagate obliquely across-shore. Groups of directionally spread incident waves can nonlinearly force evanescent bound waves, which propagate shoreward, lowering the sea level under large incident waves. Unlike the bound waves described by previous researchers, evanescent bound waves are not released when incident waves break and do not radiate far from the breakpoint. Regions of evanescent waves between the shoreface and shore-parallel sandbars are barriers to energy transport, which can decouple bar- and shore-trapped waves even when dissipation is weak.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame distilled prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.
Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one teacher head, not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".