Field evidence of pressure gradient induced incipient motion
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Bibliographic record
Abstract
Recently, models for the onshore migration of nearshore sandbars were improved by including an empirical acceleration term in the sediment transport formulation (Hoefel and Elgar, 2003). Here, field observations of the fluid‐sediment interface suggest that the success of this empirical parameter may result from unsteady forcing of sediment beds by nearshore waves. The velocity and sediment observations show that, under large pressure gradients present during the strengthening of onshore‐directed flow, several centimeters of previously still sediment can be mobilized and transported onshore. The onshore‐directed mobile‐bed layer rapidly settles as the wave velocity weakens. These observations are inconsistent with traditional sediment transport theories (Shields, 1936; Bagnold, 1966) that assume incipient motion is solely based on the force applied by bed stress but are consistent with theories that include an additional force induced by the horizontal pressure gradient (Madsen, 1974; Sleath, 1999). In this paper, we provide the first field evidence of incipient motion that is significantly influenced by the unsteady forcing introduced by the horizontal pressure gradient due to surface gravity waves.
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Full frame distilled prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.
Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it