Bibliographic record
Abstract
Field observations and model simulations are presented of flow generated by waves breaking over a shoal at the entrance to a shallow bay. The shoal is composed of a series of steep and narrow bedrock ridges with depths of 2–8 m at the ridge crests. Observations from instruments on the shoal indicated peak significant wave heights during a storm event were 2.4–4.0 m across the observation sites; this spatial variability is due to wave breaking over the ridges. The 2‐D depth‐averaged hydrodynamic model Delft3D, coupled to the wave model SWAN, was used to simulate the waves and wave‐driven flow over the shoal and throughout the entire bay with a nested fine grid (5 m resolution) to resolve the shoal bathymetry. The model predicts a well‐defined jet behind the shoal, with mean axial speeds of 0.4–0.7 m/s. The observations indicate maximum speeds behind the shoal of 0.3–0.4 m/s, exceeding the maximum tidal current speed by more than a factor of 4, that are consistent in timing and direction with the model predictions. The model overpredicts wave breaking over the steep slopes and as a result the current speeds are overestimated.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.001 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".