Bedform Migration on a Sheltered Sandy Beach in Southwestern Australia
Bibliographic record
Abstract
This paper relates nearshore ripple behaviour to cyclic changes in hydrodynamic conditions due to a sea breeze. Simultaneous time series measurements of waves, currents, and ripple crest positions were obtained from the nearshore of a micro-tidal low energy beach in southwestern Australia during two diurnal sea breeze cycles. Large parallel ripples with wavelengths of 0.3m–1.2m and heights of 0.05m–0.15m were present in coarse sand for the duration of observations. Mean ripple migration rates were calculated every half hour. During the sea breeze, wave height increased and wave period decreased with the addition of locally generated, short period wind waves on the incident swell waves. As a result, mean offshore flow (undertow) increased and cross-shore velocity skewness and asymmetry decreased. Ripples migrated onshore during the swell-dominated period and offshore during the sea breeze. It is proposed that the ripple migration direction is a function of the balance between onshore cross-shore velocity asymmetry and skewness and offshore mean flow.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.001 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".