Boussinesq Wave Model Compared with Field Data
Bibliographic record
Abstract
A preliminary nonlinear breaking wave model is presented for a regular wave in an attempt to generalize it to field data by considering a Rayleigh wave height distribution to take into account the wave randomness. Surface elevation and velocities, represented as Fourier expansions, are calculated by solving Boussinesq type evolution equations. The dissipation of energy due to wave breaking is introduced in the set of evolutionary equations by including a damping term based on the Eldeberky and Battjes approach. The model is compared with the laboratory data of Ting and Kirby. In their experiment they considered regular waves propagating and breaking over a uniform sloping bottom. The comparisons show good agreement with the observed skewness of the free surface elevation. At the time of the redaction of this paper, the model is extended to a bar topography and compared with field data of Duck94, North Carolina.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.003 | 0.001 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".