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Record W2512778073 · doi:10.1386/csmf.3.2.63_1

Collared: Celluloid, masculinity and class

2016· article· en· W2512778073 on OpenAlexaff
Julia Petrov

Bibliographic record

VenueCritical Studies in Men’s Fashion · 2016
Typearticle
Languageen
FieldArts and Humanities
TopicFashion and Cultural Textiles
Canadian institutionsRoyal Alberta Museum
Fundersnot available
KeywordsMasculinityPeriod (music)ClothingSocial hierarchySincerityFemininityHierarchyCharacter (mathematics)SociologyGender studiesAestheticsHistoryPsychologyArtSocial scienceSocial psychologyLawPolitical science

Abstract

fetched live from OpenAlex

Abstract Modern discussions of nineteenth-century-male fashion claim that this was the period when male dress was standardized into a uniform of acceptable respectability. Indeed, to twenty-first-century eyes, the prevailing image of the Victorian male seems to be a homogenous mass of black suits, bowler hats and stiff collars. Contemporary observers were able to instantly size up a man’s character, class and professional ambitions by a mere glance at their clothing. The collar, whether paper, linen or celluloid, became the locus of social distinction, and is therefore the best example of the nuanced associations attached to male clothing during the late nineteenth century. Taking a material culture approach, with additional support from popular literature and visual sources, may help historians to better understand and interpret the strict hierarchy of Victorian men and the uniforms that prescribed their social existence. Questions of sincerity, aspiration and moral uprightness are also inextricably linked to this topic, and the conclusions drawn may have additional implications for how scholars and historians understand the corresponding feminine sphere during this period.

Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.

How this classification was reachedexpand

Full frame machine prediction

Teacher imitation

Not calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.

metaresearch head score (Codex)0.001
metaresearch head score (Gemma)0.002
Version: metacan-v3-hybrid-931329e0061cValidation status: machine_predicted_unvalidated
Candidate categoriesnone
Consensus categoriesnone
DomainCandidate signal: none · Consensus signal: none
Study designCandidate signal: Qualitative · Consensus signal: none
GenreCandidate signal: Empirical · Consensus signal: Empirical
Teacher disagreement score0.016
Threshold uncertainty score0.032

Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)

CategoryCodexGemma
Metaresearch0.0010.002
Meta-epidemiology (narrow)0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (broad)0.0000.000
Bibliometrics0.0010.001
Science and technology studies0.0040.017
Scholarly communication0.0050.002
Open science0.0000.002
Research integrity0.0010.001
Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)0.0060.000

Machine scores (provisional)

The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.

Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.

Opus teacher head0.092
GPT teacher head0.323
Teacher spread0.230 · how far apart the two teachers sit on this one work
Validation statusscore_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it

Classification

machine, unvalidated

Machine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.

The models applied no category: nothing in the taxonomy fit this work.
Study designQualitative
Domainnot available
GenreEmpirical

How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".

Quick stats

Citations1
Published2016
Admission routes1
Has abstractyes

Explore more

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