Sport climbing: medical considerations for this new Olympic discipline
Why this work is in the frame
A frame that forgets how it found something cannot be audited. These are the routes that admitted this work.
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Since the recent announcement that Sport Climbing was selected to be part of the next Summer Olympic Games in 2020, climbers around the world are eager to see their sport on the most world-renowned athletic stage. A few days ago, the Tokyo 2020 Additional Event Programme Panel selected this very exciting and challenging sport, with its three subdisciplines (‘Lead Climbing’, ‘Speed Climbing’ and ‘Bouldering’), to be part of the next Summer Olympics. This landmark decision reflects a huge worldwide interest and enthusiasm for the relatively young sport of climbing, which has exploded in popularity in recent years. This is an exciting time for sport climbers, coaches and fans; however, we would like to recommend a cautious and informed approach to establishing this sport as part of the Olympic …
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Full frame distilled prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.
Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.005 | 0.025 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.002 | 0.001 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.001 | 0.002 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.008 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it