Sport climbing: medical considerations for this new Olympic discipline
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Since the recent announcement that Sport Climbing was selected to be part of the next Summer Olympic Games in 2020, climbers around the world are eager to see their sport on the most world-renowned athletic stage. A few days ago, the Tokyo 2020 Additional Event Programme Panel selected this very exciting and challenging sport, with its three subdisciplines (‘Lead Climbing’, ‘Speed Climbing’ and ‘Bouldering’), to be part of the next Summer Olympics. This landmark decision reflects a huge worldwide interest and enthusiasm for the relatively young sport of climbing, which has exploded in popularity in recent years. This is an exciting time for sport climbers, coaches and fans; however, we would like to recommend a cautious and informed approach to establishing this sport as part of the Olympic …
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.005 | 0.023 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.002 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.003 | 0.002 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.003 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.003 | 0.003 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.007 | 0.006 |
| Open science | 0.003 | 0.002 |
| Research integrity | 0.023 | 0.030 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.009 | 0.008 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".