Computations of Three-Dimensional Overturning Waves in Shallow Water: Dynamics and Kinematics
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Simulations in a three-dimensional numerical wave tank are performed to investigate the shoaling and breaking of a solitary wave over a sloping ridge with a lateral modulation. The model is based on a high-order boundary element method combined with a mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian formulation. Our study is focused on the case of a plunging breaker and is aimed at describing the phenomenon of wave overturning in shallow water. A local regridding technique is developed to allow computations to be run until an advanced stage of wave overturning. A detailed analysis of wave profiles and wave kinematics (both on the free surface and within the flow) is carried out. As expected, the bottom topography is found to be an important factor controlling wave transformations and inducing three-dimensional effects on the flow. Nevertheless, comparisons of two-and three-dimensional results in the middle cross-section of the tank show remarkable similarities in jet shape and dynamics. This supports the general viewpoint that the evolution of an overturning wave becomes somewhat independent of the interior dynamics and boundary conditions.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Research integrity | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.002 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".