Tidal Modulation of Surface Gravity Waves in the Gulf of Maine
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Abstract This study examines the tidal modulation of surface gravity waves in the Gulf of Maine (GoM) by using in situ observations and numerical model results. Analysis of observational data demonstrates significant semidiurnal tidal modulations in the mean wave variables for swell-dominated waves in the region. The observed tidal modulation features significant spatial–temporal variabilities, with large magnitudes near the mouth of the GoM. Observations also demonstrate unusual timing of the maximum modulation of significant wave height H s in the following tidal currents. The coupled wave–circulation model successfully reproduces the observed tidal modulation and the associated spatial–temporal variabilities. Model results demonstrate that the maximum H s modulations are first generated during the maximum flood tide or ebb tide near the mouth of the GoM and then propagate onto the inner gulf. Around the mouth of the GoM, tidal currents have strong spatial gradients, resulting in great effects of current-induced convergence, refraction, and wavenumber shift. The tidal modulation in H s generated by convergence (10%–14%) is less affected by the wave propagation direction than the modulation generated by the wavenumber shift (6%–10%) and refraction (4%–20%). The latter modulation varies significantly with changes in the wave propagation direction. In addition, current-enhanced dissipation becomes important during high winds, which reduces at least one-half of the H s modulation during the study period. The observed unusual timing of the maximum H s modulation in the following tidal currents can be mostly explained by the convergence and wavenumber shift associated with wave-energy convergence and energy transfer from currents to waves in spatially decelerating currents.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame distilled prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.
Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one teacher head, not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".