Small-Scale Morpho-Sedimentary Dynamics in the Swash Zone of a Megatidal Mixed Sand–Gravel Beach
Bibliographic record
Abstract
On mixed sand–gravel beaches, impacts from gravel- and cobble-sized grains—mobilized by the energetic shorebreak—limit the utility of in situ instrumentation for measuring the small-scale response of the beach face on wave period time scales. We present field observations of swash zone morpho-sedimentary dynamics at a steep, megatidal mixed sand–gravel beach using aeroacoustic and optical remote sensing. Coincident observations of bed level and mean surficial sediment grain size in the swash zone were obtained using an array of optical cameras paired with acoustic range sensors. Lagrangian tracking of swash-transported cobbles was carried out using an additional downward-oriented camera. The principal objective of the study was to investigate linkages between sediment grain size dynamics and swash zone morphological change. In general, data from the range sensor and camera array show that increases in bed level corresponded to increases in mean grain size. Finer-scale structures in the bed level and mean grain size signals were observable over timescales of minutes, including signatures of bands of coarse-grained material that migrated shoreward with the leading edge of the swash prior to high tide berm formation. The direction and magnitude of cobble transport in the swash varied with cross-shore position, and with the composition of the underlying bed. These results demonstrate that close-range remote sensing techniques can provide valuable insights into the roles of cobble-sized versus sand-sized particle dynamics in the swash zone on mixed sand–gravel beaches.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.001 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".