The Influence of Coastal Morphology on Shoreface Sediment Transport under Storm Combined Flows, Canadian Beaufort Sea
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Wind, wave and current measurements were carried in the nearshore zone of the Canadian Beaufort Sea at two coastal sites having distinct morphologies. The first site is a sandy beach backed by a low bluff, while the second site consists of low-lying barriers. Computation of potential sediment transport using a numerical model for combined flow conditions (LI and AMOS, 1993) suggests that coastal morphology may play a significant role on circulation and sediment transport on the shoreface during storm events. Downwelling near-bottom currents and offshore sediment transport were observed at all sites during storm surges, but with some variations in the shoreface current patterns and sediment transport. According to the numerical model used in this study, offshore sediment transport is more significant where the beach is backed by a bluff acting as a natural barrier. Such condition appears to be favorable to the development of strong seaward-directed horizontal pressure gradients that drive offshore bottom currents. Along low barriers that are easily submerged and overwashed, sediment transport is mainly directed obliquely offshore due to more limited set-up of sea level at the coast during storm surges. These results suggest that coastal morphology may be responsible for variable offshore sediment dispersal on the shoreface during storms. Our results show that sediment may be transported offshore to depths from which fairweather waves may not be capable of returning the material onshore. Consequently, a loss of material to the offshore may be greater where overwashing is restricted due to the presence of a coastal feature that acts as a boundary for onshore-driven surface waters.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.002 | 0.001 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.001 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".