Le sportswear au Palais Galliera : De la constitution des collections à la disponibilité de matériaux pour l’histoire
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Modern sneakers are characterised by a link to athletic sports, the use of synthetic materials and visible branding. They have been popular as everyday shoes for over forty years. This article takes a comparative approach and focuses on the origins of this category of footwear, as both manufactured object and market segment, in Britain, West Germany and the United States in the three decades after the Second World War. During this period, mass markets for sneakers emerged alongside the growing popularity of sports as recreational leisure activities as well as state initiatives that promoted physical fitness. Sneakers were conceived as specialist shoes for sports and training and were marketed as distinct from their more simple predecessors. In each market, however, subtle differences emerged in the development of the modern sneaker. This article highlights the specificities in each of the three national contexts examined while also emphasizing characteristics shared across western economies emerging from the Second World War. It argues that sneaker design and marketing were shaped by shifts in the nature of sport, developments in technology and materials, rivalries between different producers and the pressures of international trade. The analysis of the creation of modern sneakers casts new light on the recent past and the evolution of manufactured products while also showing how wider historical forces and the prosaic realities of business influence the development of markets for consumer goods.
Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.
How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.004 | 0.005 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.002 | 0.003 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.012 | 0.012 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.007 | 0.002 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.005 |
| Research integrity | 0.001 | 0.003 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.010 | 0.001 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".