PUTTING ON A GRAVE FACE: THE TRANSITION OF MOURNING DRESS FROM 1900 TO 1920
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Mourning dress during the nineteenth century had prescribed rules that were forced to change in the twentieth century due to societal pressures and changing values about death and mourning. The goal of this study was to examine the changes and the results of those changes in upper and upper-middle class mourning dress in the United States of America during the first quarter of the twentieth century. To do this, two garments believed to be mourning dress from the early twentieth century were examined and compared as a case study. Two questions were researched and answered in this study. How did mourning dress visually and materially change during the first twenty-five years of the twentieth century? Do the garments selected for study reflect those changes? Mourning dress changed visually to align with the trends in non-mourning fashion. Additionally, a wider variety of materials became acceptable as mourning crepe fell out of fashion and mourning etiquette became less formal. Overall, the garments selected for this case study did reflect the visual and material changes.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.003 | 0.003 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.002 | 0.001 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.003 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".