Clothing as a Site of Memory: The Uses and Legacy of Suffrage Fashion
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Abstract: Clothing and appearance were an instrumental part of the women’s suffrage campaign in the United States that led to the ratification of the Nineteenth Amendment. By using specific styles and colours and emphasizing feminine appearance, suffragists turned fashion into a political strategy to refute popular derogatory images of women activists, while also building their “brand” to gain public support for their cause. By the late twentieth century, women politicians who sought to break new ground in government reclaimed suffragists’ fashion and especially the suffrage colours, making it part of their political vocabulary and message. Examining the role suffrage fashions played in the past and their legacies in the present thus illuminates how fashion became a site of feminist memory to the movement and to the struggle. Through the material manifestations and legacies suffrage maintained in popular culture, fashion became a means of commemoration as well as resistance. Abstract: L’habillement et l’apparence ont joué un rôle déterminant dans la campagne pour le droit de vote des femmes aux États-Unis, laquelle a conduit à la ratification du dix-neuvième amendement. En utilisant des styles et des couleurs spécifiques et en accentuant l’apparence féminine, les suffragistes ont transformé la mode en une stratégie politique pour réfuter les images populaires désobligeantes qui leur étaient associées, tout en construisant leur « marque » pour gagner le soutien du public à leur cause. À la fin du XXe siècle, les politiciennes qui cherchaient à faire preuve d’innovation au sein du gouvernement se sont réapproprié la mode des suffragistes, et en particulier les couleurs associées au suffrage, en l’intégrant à leur vocabulaire et à leurs discours politiques. Ainsi, l’examen du rôle de la mode du suffrage dans le passé et de son héritage dans le présent met en lumière la façon dont la mode est devenue un lieu de mémoire féministe du mouvement et de la lutte. Par les manifestations matérielles et l’héritage que le suffrage a maintenu dans la culture populaire, la mode est devenue un moyen de commémoration et de résistance.
Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.
How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.002 | 0.003 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.002 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.006 | 0.018 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.010 | 0.007 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.003 |
| Research integrity | 0.001 | 0.002 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.006 | 0.001 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".