Bibliographic record
Abstract
Human interaction with ocean surface waves occurs mainly in the nearshore region. Waves propagating towards the coast over gradually sloping bathymetry undergo fundamental transformations, resulting in statistics and spectral energy distributions that are substantially different to those of the incoming wave field in deep water. This is of particular importance to the generation of individual extreme waves.This presentation will address our recent observational studies of spectral wave properties and surface elevation statistics at various nearshore locations ranging from normalized water depth of kH > 5 (deep water) to kH < 0.1 (beach-water interface). Data were obtained by surface following wave buoys, bottom-mounted pressure sensors, and an acoustic current profiler. The data reveal the dependence of skewness, kurtosis, and wave groupiness on normalized water depth, and on the position within the surf zone relative to the onset of depth-induced breaking. In the surf zone, skewness and groupiness are modulated coherently, whereas modulations of the kurtosis seem to be more random. In addition, the spectral change of the wave energy across the surf zone including the emerging infragravity wave signal will be discussed.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.001 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".