MétaCan
Menu
Back to cohort
Record W4396855747 · doi:10.26522/jess.v10i.4548

A Cross-Sectional, Survey-Based Study of Equity, Diversity, and Inclusion in the Canadian Indoor Climbing Community

2024· article· en· W4396855747 on OpenAlex
Daniel Wigfield, Anita Acai

Why this work is in the frame

A frame that forgets how it found something cannot be audited. These are the routes that admitted this work.

affAt least one author lists a Canadian institution in the pinned OpenAlex snapshot.
venuePublished in a venue whose home country is Canada.
aboutThe title or abstract carries a Canadian signal from the geographic lexicon.

Bibliographic record

VenueJournal of Emerging Sport Studies · 2024
Typearticle
Languageen
FieldPsychology
TopicSport Psychology and Performance
Canadian institutionsMcMaster UniversityUniversity of Guelph
Fundersnot available
KeywordsClimbingRespondentInclusion (mineral)Diversity (politics)General partnershipDemographicsPopularityEquity (law)PsychologyPolitical scienceSociologyGeographySocial psychologyDemography

Abstract

fetched live from OpenAlex

Purpose: This study sought to offer insights into the demographics of the Canadian climbing community, as well as the perceived motivators and constraints to participating in climbing through an equity, diversity, and inclusion (EDI) lens. Approach: This cross-sectional, survey-based study was conducted in partnership with Climbing Escalade Canada (CEC), the national governing body of climbing in Canada. Findings: The average respondent in this study was white, heterosexual, young, highly educated and living in a household that earns over $100,000 annually. Social motivations were noted as a significant motivator for climbers—especially for women. Women, gender minorities, and racialized people all faced heightened constraints to participate in climbing. Implications: The findings of this study provide valuable insights for program and policy improvement across the Canadian climbing community, which can lead to sustaining the rapid rise in popularity taking place in the sport Research Contributions: With the exception of one recent study, much of the research investigating EDI in climbing has focused almost exclusively on gender and has been conducted outside of Canada. Future work within the sport of climbing can focus on improving the accessibility to climbing, as well as the overall sense of inclusion and diversity within the sport.

Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.

Full frame distilled prediction

Teacher imitation

Not calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.

metaresearch head score (Codex)0.009
metaresearch head score (Gemma)0.000
Version: codex-gemma-dda1882f352aValidation status: machine_predicted_unvalidated
Candidate categoriesScience and technology studies
Consensus categoriesnone
DomainCandidate signal: none · Consensus signal: none
Study designCandidate signal: Observational · Consensus signal: Observational
GenreCandidate signal: Empirical · Consensus signal: Empirical
Teacher disagreement score0.289
Threshold uncertainty score0.998

Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category

CategoryCodexGemma
Metaresearch0.0090.000
Meta-epidemiology (narrow)0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (broad)0.0000.000
Bibliometrics0.0000.000
Science and technology studies0.0030.000
Scholarly communication0.0000.000
Open science0.0000.002
Research integrity0.0000.001
Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)0.0000.000

Machine scores (provisional)

The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.

Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.

Opus teacher head0.229
GPT teacher head0.476
Teacher spread0.247 · how far apart the two teachers sit on this one work
Validation statusscore_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it