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Record W4396855747 · doi:10.26522/jess.v10i.4548

A Cross-Sectional, Survey-Based Study of Equity, Diversity, and Inclusion in the Canadian Indoor Climbing Community

2024· article· en· W4396855747 on OpenAlexaffvenueabout
Daniel Wigfield, Anita Acai

Bibliographic record

VenueJournal of Emerging Sport Studies · 2024
Typearticle
Languageen
FieldPsychology
TopicSport Psychology and Performance
Canadian institutionsMcMaster UniversityUniversity of Guelph
Fundersnot available
KeywordsClimbingRespondentInclusion (mineral)Diversity (politics)General partnershipDemographicsPopularityEquity (law)PsychologyPolitical scienceSociologyGeographySocial psychologyDemography

Abstract

fetched live from OpenAlex

Purpose: This study sought to offer insights into the demographics of the Canadian climbing community, as well as the perceived motivators and constraints to participating in climbing through an equity, diversity, and inclusion (EDI) lens. Approach: This cross-sectional, survey-based study was conducted in partnership with Climbing Escalade Canada (CEC), the national governing body of climbing in Canada. Findings: The average respondent in this study was white, heterosexual, young, highly educated and living in a household that earns over $100,000 annually. Social motivations were noted as a significant motivator for climbers—especially for women. Women, gender minorities, and racialized people all faced heightened constraints to participate in climbing. Implications: The findings of this study provide valuable insights for program and policy improvement across the Canadian climbing community, which can lead to sustaining the rapid rise in popularity taking place in the sport Research Contributions: With the exception of one recent study, much of the research investigating EDI in climbing has focused almost exclusively on gender and has been conducted outside of Canada. Future work within the sport of climbing can focus on improving the accessibility to climbing, as well as the overall sense of inclusion and diversity within the sport.

Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.

How this classification was reachedexpand

Full frame machine prediction

Teacher imitation

Not calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.

metaresearch head score (Codex)0.002
metaresearch head score (Gemma)0.004
Version: metacan-v3-hybrid-931329e0061cValidation status: machine_predicted_unvalidated
Candidate categoriesnone
Consensus categoriesnone
DomainCandidate signal: none · Consensus signal: none
Study designCandidate signal: Observational · Consensus signal: Observational
GenreCandidate signal: Empirical · Consensus signal: Empirical
Teacher disagreement score0.019
Threshold uncertainty score0.096

Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)

CategoryCodexGemma
Metaresearch0.0020.004
Meta-epidemiology (narrow)0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (broad)0.0000.000
Bibliometrics0.0020.003
Science and technology studies0.0060.001
Scholarly communication0.0020.001
Open science0.0010.001
Research integrity0.0000.001
Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)0.0020.000

Machine scores (provisional)

The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.

Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.

Opus teacher head0.229
GPT teacher head0.476
Teacher spread0.247 · how far apart the two teachers sit on this one work
Validation statusscore_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it

Classification

machine, unvalidated

Machine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.

The models applied no category: nothing in the taxonomy fit this work.
Study designObservational
Domainnot available
GenreEmpirical

How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".

Quick stats

Citations1
Published2024
Admission routes3
Has abstractyes

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