Brief report: participation frequency across climbing disciplines from North American surveys
Bibliographic record
Abstract
A lack of relevant data impedes our understanding of how people engage in different types of climbing. This study sheds light on participation frequency across disciplines in contemporary climbing with findings from two convenience sample surveys targeting overlapping North American climbing populations: identified indoor climbers and outdoor climbing advocates. The findings indicate that the overall participation frequency is highest for top-rope climbing and sport climbing, followed by bouldering and traditional climbing. The relative popularity of these disciplines varies somewhat based on the climbing population in question. In contrast, ice climbing, free soloing, and aid climbing exhibit low participation rates among survey respondents overall, and relatively infrequent engagement among participants. The findings contribute to our understanding of how people participate in climbing, with insights into the sport’s evolution through processes such as indoorization, sportivization, and specialization.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.003 | 0.007 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.002 | 0.002 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Research integrity | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.006 | 0.001 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".