On the Influence of Beach Slope on Wave Non-Linearities on a Macrotidal Low-Tide Terrace Beach
Bibliographic record
Abstract
This study examines the evolution of wave shapes as they propagate over a beach of varying morphology, information essential for understanding coastal dynamics and supporting coastal management. Our objective was to analyze the relationship between wave shape parameters and the local slope of the beach. To achieve this, we used data from pressure sensors and topographic measurements to evaluate the shape of waves on a cross-shore profile of a low-tide terrace beach. The analysis of wave conditions revealed a pronounced modulation of the tidal signal, which is augmented during storm events. Our findings demonstrate that the asymmetry and skewness parameters are more pronounced in the reflective zone of the beach. Considering these results, it can be concluded that the non-linearity of waves is significantly affected by the beach slope. The parameterization method employed in this study effectively incorporates this factor, offering improved accuracy in comparison to the existing approaches.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame distilled prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.
Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one teacher head, not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".