Learning from the Past: Why the Second World War 'Make Do and Mend' Scheme Provides a Poor Model for the Future of Sustainable Fashion
Bibliographic record
Abstract
This paper seeks to understand why the British 'Make Do and Mend' scheme, and the specific period of 1940s austerity with which it is related, holds such power in contemporary sustainability discourse.It argues that looking back at the history of this period and asking questions about its legacy provides a powerful critique to those who present it as a deceptively simple solution to a complex problem.It further hypothesizes that studying the history of 'Make Do and Mend', along with consumer behaviours during the Second World War, lays bare the flaws within some contemporary sustainability initiatives.These flaws highlight the disconnect between production and consumption activities, ultimately hindering progress toward a more sustainable fashion industry.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.003 | 0.004 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.006 | 0.029 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.007 | 0.010 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.002 |
| Research integrity | 0.002 | 0.004 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.005 | 0.001 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".