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Wave-induced horizontal diffusivity from optically sensed dye tracer fields in impermeable beach laboratory experiments

2025· article· en· W4416818901 on OpenAlex

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affAt least one author lists a Canadian institution in the pinned OpenAlex snapshot.
fundA Canadian funder is recorded on the work.

Bibliographic record

VenueCoastal Engineering · 2025
Typearticle
Languageen
FieldEarth and Planetary Sciences
TopicCoastal and Marine Dynamics
Canadian institutionsUniversity of British ColumbiaQueen's University
FundersNatural Sciences and Engineering Research Council of CanadaQueen's UniversityUniversity of Wisconsin-MadisonGulf Research ProgramNational Science Foundation
KeywordsSwashThermal diffusivitySurf zoneTRACERDiffusionBreaking waveWave tankMass diffusivity

Abstract

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Contaminants in nearshore regions can have negative consequences for aquatic life, public health, and the economic value of beaches. The associated risk in these regions depends on the relative concentrations of the contaminant at different distances from the shore. To address this concern, we performed passive tracer studies during a series of experiments in a laboratory wave basin, releasing dye near-instantaneously into the swash zone and outside of the breaking zone under monochromatic waves of varying heights and incident angles. By tracking dye patch evolution with cameras, we approximated horizontal diffusivity of the dye from the time rate of change of its variance in the cross-shore and alongshore directions. We performed approximately 50 dye release experiments with a combination of three wave heights and three wave angles. From these experiments, we approximate cross-shore and alongshore diffusivities ( κ x , κ y ) and explore parameterizations of these diffusivities on the basis of cross-shore location and wave conditions. The results indicate an order of magnitude increase in both κ x and κ y from the region of wave shoaling to the surf and swash zones. The nearshore diffusivity estimates show good agreement with previous empirical models and values reported in the literature, and for the first time provide insight on the detailed cross-shore distribution of horizontal diffusivity inside and outside of the wave breaking region.

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Full frame distilled prediction

Teacher imitation

Not calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.

metaresearch head score (Codex)0.000
metaresearch head score (Gemma)0.000
Version: codex-gemma-dda1882f352aValidation status: machine_predicted_unvalidated
Candidate categoriesnone
Consensus categoriesnone
DomainCandidate signal: none · Consensus signal: none
Study designCandidate signal: Observational · Consensus signal: none
GenreCandidate signal: Empirical · Consensus signal: Empirical
Teacher disagreement score0.421
Threshold uncertainty score0.742

Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category

CategoryCodexGemma
Metaresearch0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (narrow)0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (broad)0.0000.000
Bibliometrics0.0000.000
Science and technology studies0.0000.000
Scholarly communication0.0000.000
Open science0.0000.000
Research integrity0.0000.000
Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)0.0000.000

Machine scores (provisional)

The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.

Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.

Opus teacher head0.007
GPT teacher head0.197
Teacher spread0.190 · how far apart the two teachers sit on this one work
Validation statusscore_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it