Dress, dark gold charmeuse with reverse of fabric as contrasting trim, 1920s, quarter view
Bibliographic record
Abstract
1920s. Dark gold charmeuse one-piece tubular drop-waisted dress, incorporating the reverse of the main fabric as a contrasting texture, with long sleeves and a flaring calf-length skirt. The dress has one full-length front panel and one full-length back panel, each assembled from six distinct sections that alternate the shiny, satin-weave front of the material with its matte, crepe-weave reverse before being sewn together at the shoulder and side seams. The bodice area from shoulders to hips is made with the satin side of the fabric, and the dropped waistline at the hips is defined with a flattened chevron-shaped band of the crepe side, roughly 4.8 cm / 1.875 in. wide (variable), that comes to a shallow point at center front and back and scoops lower at the sides. A satin band, roughly 5.1 cm / 2 in. wide (variable), is sewn beneath this, matching the lines of the curves, and another crepe band the same width as the first is sewn beneath it. Until this point, the dress is more or less a straight-sided tube, but now satin panels flaring at the sides are added in to form the skirt, more than doubling the width of the garment. Finally, at the hem, a roughly 14 cm / 5.5 in. (variable) band of crepe completes the skirt. At both side seams, between the arm scyes and the first crepe hip band, nine horizontal tucks are stacked on top of each other crossing from front to back, creating a slight shaping. The front panel has a deep V-shaped neckline, 57.2 cm / 22.5 in long on each side, that reaches all the way into the top of the first hip band. This is framed with a crepe border, added onto the dress, that resembles a shawl collar. The deep opening is filled in to create a much shallower neckline with two crossed pieces of cream machine-made lace on a net ground, with its floral pattern outlined by a heavier gimp thread. In back, the neckline rests at the nape of the neck, and the dress has twelve short vertical pin-tucks coming down from the neckline into the bodice. The sleeves are made with the satin face of the fabric and have one seam. They fit smoothly to the scye and arm, and end at the wrist with a small crepe cuff decorated with a stylized crepe bow with triangles of lace inserted into each side. The dress has no lining, pulls on over the head, and has no fastenings. The uneven shapes of the various panels and the slight misalignment of elements at the side seams indicate this is a homemade effort. Machine-sewn and hand-sewn.
Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.
How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.002 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.218 | 0.052 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".