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Record W6990505682

Dress, dark gold charmeuse with reverse of fabric as contrasting trim, 1920s, quarter view

2019· article· en· W6990505682 on OpenAlexaboutno aff

Bibliographic record

VenueUniversity of New Hampshire Scholars Repository (University of New Hampshire at Manchester) · 2019
Typearticle
Languageen
FieldArts and Humanities
TopicFashion and Cultural Textiles
Canadian institutionsnot available
Fundersnot available
KeywordsFront (military)WaistlinePoint (geometry)Quarter (Canadian coin)Sky
DOInot available

Abstract

fetched live from OpenAlex

1920s. Dark gold charmeuse one-piece tubular drop-waisted dress, incorporating the reverse of the main fabric as a contrasting texture, with long sleeves and a flaring calf-length skirt. The dress has one full-length front panel and one full-length back panel, each assembled from six distinct sections that alternate the shiny, satin-weave front of the material with its matte, crepe-weave reverse before being sewn together at the shoulder and side seams. The bodice area from shoulders to hips is made with the satin side of the fabric, and the dropped waistline at the hips is defined with a flattened chevron-shaped band of the crepe side, roughly 4.8 cm / 1.875 in. wide (variable), that comes to a shallow point at center front and back and scoops lower at the sides. A satin band, roughly 5.1 cm / 2 in. wide (variable), is sewn beneath this, matching the lines of the curves, and another crepe band the same width as the first is sewn beneath it. Until this point, the dress is more or less a straight-sided tube, but now satin panels flaring at the sides are added in to form the skirt, more than doubling the width of the garment. Finally, at the hem, a roughly 14 cm / 5.5 in. (variable) band of crepe completes the skirt. At both side seams, between the arm scyes and the first crepe hip band, nine horizontal tucks are stacked on top of each other crossing from front to back, creating a slight shaping. The front panel has a deep V-shaped neckline, 57.2 cm / 22.5 in long on each side, that reaches all the way into the top of the first hip band. This is framed with a crepe border, added onto the dress, that resembles a shawl collar. The deep opening is filled in to create a much shallower neckline with two crossed pieces of cream machine-made lace on a net ground, with its floral pattern outlined by a heavier gimp thread. In back, the neckline rests at the nape of the neck, and the dress has twelve short vertical pin-tucks coming down from the neckline into the bodice. The sleeves are made with the satin face of the fabric and have one seam. They fit smoothly to the scye and arm, and end at the wrist with a small crepe cuff decorated with a stylized crepe bow with triangles of lace inserted into each side. The dress has no lining, pulls on over the head, and has no fastenings. The uneven shapes of the various panels and the slight misalignment of elements at the side seams indicate this is a homemade effort. Machine-sewn and hand-sewn.

Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.

How this classification was reachedexpand

Full frame distilled prediction

Teacher imitation

Not calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.

metaresearch head score (Codex)0.000
metaresearch head score (Gemma)0.000
Version: codex-gemma-dda1882f352aValidation status: machine_predicted_unvalidated
Candidate categoriesMeta-epidemiology (narrow), Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)
Consensus categoriesnone
DomainCandidate signal: none · Consensus signal: none
Study designCandidate signal: Qualitative · Consensus signal: none
GenreCandidate signal: Empirical · Consensus signal: Empirical
Teacher disagreement score0.376
Threshold uncertainty score1.000

Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category

CategoryCodexGemma
Metaresearch0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (narrow)0.0000.001
Meta-epidemiology (broad)0.0010.000
Bibliometrics0.0000.000
Science and technology studies0.0010.001
Scholarly communication0.0000.002
Open science0.0010.000
Research integrity0.0000.000
Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)0.0020.000

Machine scores (provisional)

The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.

Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.

Opus teacher head0.018
GPT teacher head0.180
Teacher spread0.162 · how far apart the two teachers sit on this one work
Validation statusscore_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it

Classification

machine, unvalidated

Machine predicted; a candidate call from one teacher head, not a consensus.

Study designQualitative
Domainnot available
GenreEmpirical

How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".

Quick stats

Citations0
Published2019
Admission routes1
Has abstractyes

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