King of the deck : sartorial extremism of Hull’s distant-water trawlermen, 1950-1980
Bibliographic record
Abstract
During the third quarter of the twentieth century, Hull’s distant-water trawlermen pushed the boundaries of acceptable menswear with the collective creation of the ‘shore suit’, a highly distinctive off-duty uniform. Invariably flamboyant, shore suits were tailored in pastel shades with extreme detailing of Spanish waistbands, half-moon pockets, back pleats and exceptionally wide trousers.Little research has hitherto been undertaken into this subject. This is largely because evidence relating to the trawlermen’s lifestyle ashore is relatively scarce, with an almost apocryphal discourse materialising due to the lack of documentary and visual evidence. The aim of this thesis is to construct a comprehensive appraisal of the design, fabrication and meaning of the shore suit in the social and cultural contexts of the trawlermen’s two domains—on the vessel’s deck at sea and on land.Oral history interviews with trawlermen, witnesses and those involved in the tailoring trade, together with object analysis of the shore suit, form the core research methods deployed in this investigation. Interpretivism explores the performativity of the men. The findings highlight the many variations of style within this self-regulated uniform, and its conformity, or otherwise, with contemporary fashion trends. The shore suit was not a singular genre, but plural shaped by the experiences of trawlermen, which were diverse due to the precariousness of their occupation. A device for visual recognition, the shore suit projected both the individual and the collective, beyond the local community of Hessle Road, Hull.The thesis contributes to knowledge and understanding of two fields of enquiry. First, it adds depth to scholarly debates on the development and meaning of subcultural dress. No other subcultural style was embedded within a specific workforce, the trawlermen’s shore suit offers an unusual and revealing perspective on working-class fashion and design in Britain from 1950 to 1980. Second, focusing on those who worked in the most dynamic and industrialised sector of Britain’s fisheries, this study instils precision and perception into previous interpretations of Hull’s fisheries, and thereby enhances the trawling dimension of the field of socio-cultural maritime history.
Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.
How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.011 | 0.011 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.004 | 0.002 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.003 |
| Research integrity | 0.001 | 0.002 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.007 | 0.001 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".