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Record W7027818279

Dress, taupe silk crepe with short sleeves and overskirt embroidered with cord and gold beads, c. 1920, quarter view

2019· article· en· W7027818279 on OpenAlexaboutno aff

Bibliographic record

VenueUniversity of New Hampshire Scholars Repository (University of New Hampshire at Manchester) · 2019
Typearticle
Languageen
FieldMaterials Science
TopicSilk-based biomaterials and applications
Canadian institutionsnot available
Fundersnot available
KeywordsFront (military)CircumferenceRibbonWaistQuarter (Canadian coin)Closure (psychology)
DOInot available

Abstract

fetched live from OpenAlex

c. 1920. Dark taupe silk crepe dress, calf-length, with short sleeves and attached overskirt panels, opening at the side and trimmed with machine embroidery, cord, and matte gold beads. The dress itself has little shaping but is made on a lining more fitted to the body. The lining is a white plain weave silk with two center-front panels pleated to a 7.3 cm / 2.875 in. wide grosgrain ribbon waist stay and a shaped six-panel back with a center-back seam, also pleated to the waist stay. It has a center-front opening with eleven hooks and eyes. The taupe silk crepe bodice has one panel in front and one in back, joined at the right side seam and the right shoulder, and is sewn to the lining along the slightly scooped neckline from the top of the left shoulder, across the back, and to the right center front. The hem is also sewn to the waist stay from the left side, across the back, and to the right center front, pouching slightly as the bodice is slightly longer than the lining. The left front of the bodice is left unlined and is not sewn down in order to allow access to the center front lining opening; it wraps over the lining and closes at the 25.4 cm / 10 in. long left side seam with eight snaps, then wraps around the left sleeve to close at the at the left shoulder with two snaps. This closure method means that while the right sleeve is sewn into the bodice itself as usual, a 27.9 cm / 11 in. wide patch of the crepe is added to the lining around the left scye and the left sleeve is sewn to this, preventing the lining from showing through any gaps when the front panel is secured. The skirt is made of two panels sewn at the sides and slightly gathered to the waist stay, with the fabric remaining free at the left front where it attaches to the waist stay with three snaps and one hook before securing to the side seam opening with three more snaps. There is no lining in the skirt. A floating apron-like panel of taupe crepe 91.4 cm / 36 in. wide and 76.2 cm / 30 in. long is gathered to a 6.7 cm / 2.625 in. wide sash, which is attached to the waist seam in front with bar tacks. Next to this in back on the left side is a floating panel of the same length but just 21.6 cm / 8.5 in. wide. From there the sash wraps around the back of the dress and is tied in the right side, next to the front floating panel, visually balancing the narrow floating panel on the left. The skirt hem has been released by 13 cm / 5.125 in. and would originally have matched the level of the floating panels. Machine embroidery, couched cord, matte gold beads, and seed beads are sewn into vines, scallops, trefoils, wreaths, fleur-de-lis, and meanders that embellish the bodice hem, sleeves, and most of the front floating panel. Machine-sewn and hand-sewn.

Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.

How this classification was reachedexpand

Full frame distilled prediction

Teacher imitation

Not calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.

metaresearch head score (Codex)0.000
metaresearch head score (Gemma)0.000
Version: codex-gemma-dda1882f352aValidation status: machine_predicted_unvalidated
Candidate categoriesMeta-epidemiology (narrow)
Consensus categoriesnone
DomainCandidate signal: none · Consensus signal: none
Study designCandidate signal: Bench or experimental · Consensus signal: none
GenreCandidate signal: Empirical · Consensus signal: Empirical
Teacher disagreement score0.778
Threshold uncertainty score1.000

Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category

CategoryCodexGemma
Metaresearch0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (narrow)0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (broad)0.0010.000
Bibliometrics0.0000.000
Science and technology studies0.0010.001
Scholarly communication0.0000.001
Open science0.0010.000
Research integrity0.0000.000
Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)0.0000.000

Machine scores (provisional)

The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.

Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.

Opus teacher head0.011
GPT teacher head0.192
Teacher spread0.181 · how far apart the two teachers sit on this one work
Validation statusscore_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it

Classification

machine, unvalidated

Machine predicted; a candidate call from one teacher head, not a consensus.

Study designBench or experimental
Domainnot available
GenreEmpirical

How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".

Quick stats

Citations0
Published2019
Admission routes1
Has abstractyes

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