The Vertical Structure of Low-Frequency Motions in the Nearshore. Part II: Theory
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Abstract Field observations from a vertical stack of two-component current meters obtained from the 1994 Duck94 nearshore field experiment (presented in a companion paper by Lippmann, et al.) show significant vertical structure in energy, phase, and rotation of motions at low frequencies around 0.005 Hz. Low-frequency motions are typically modeled in the surfzone with the shallow-water (depth averaged) momentum equations that do not allow for any vertical structure. Following work from the shelf tidal community (Prandle), this study shows that the observations are consistent with the depth-varying momentum equations including shear stresses induced by a bottom boundary layer described by a constant eddy viscosity νt and bottom friction given by a constant drag coefficient and depth-averaged velocity . The bidirectional flow field is solved over arbitrary depth profiles varying only in the cross-shore direction h(x) in the presence of a vertically uniform mean alongshore current with cross-shore shear structure V(x). Analytic solutions are found to depend on νt, cd, h, ∂V/∂x, and the parameter , where σ and k are the radian frequency and alongshore wavenumber of the oscillating motion. Model behavior is explored by plotting solutions for a given parameter space as functions of the nondimensional depth H = λh and dimensionless friction parameter that combines the effects of bottom drag and vertical mixing. The behavioral changes in amplitude, phase shift, and rotational structure over the water column are qualitatively similar to those observed in the field.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.003 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".