Montreal Chic: Institutions of Fashion—Fashions of Institutions
Bibliographic record
Abstract
This article examines and contrast the fashion collections at three of Montreal's cultural institutions, the Musée McCord, an urban and historical museum that houses over 18,000 pieces of costume and textile artifacts; the Musée du Costume et du Textile du Québec, which owns and exhibits a collection of 8,000 items worn, collected, and donated by Quebecers and contemporary fashion by Montreal-based designers; and the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal, whose director Nathalie Bondil has made locally produced international fashion exhibitions one of the key points of its curatorial practice since 2008.Our goal is to show that even though Montreal is not considered a global fashion center like Paris, London, or New York, its fashion history and practices are inevitably tied to its urbanity, rapid modernization, its turbulent history, its vibrant culture, and its unique status as the largest French-speaking and bilingual city in North America. As such, the city fits in well with the other Urban Chic studies, that focus on Berlin and Vienna.The fashion collections at these institutions reveal insights into the city's cultural history and cosmopolitan trendiness as well. These collections reflect and support Montreal's identity as a cultural center—as the city of jazz, disco, Cirque du Soleil, festivals, etc. The collections reflect the city's social and political history, for example the labor conditions of the manufacturing industries. Finally, these collections tell us what role fashion plays in the everyday lives of people who live and work in this city, and what role fashion dialogues play in the urban imaginary of Montreal.This article is based on a chapter from our forthcoming book, Montréal Chic: A Locational History of Montreal Fashion (Intellect). Following the models of Berliner Chic: A Locational History of Berlin Fashion and Wiener Chic: A Locational History of Vienna Fashion, Montréal Chic approaches fashion as a lens through which urban culture, institutions, scenes, and subcultures can be analyzed and connected.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.001 | 0.002 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.002 | 0.004 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.014 | 0.007 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.008 | 0.002 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.003 |
| Research integrity | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.028 | 0.001 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".