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Montreal Chic: Institutions of Fashion—Fashions of Institutions

2015· article· en· W2410867178 on OpenAlex
Katrina Sark, Sara Danièle Bélanger-Michaud

Why this work is in the frame

A frame that forgets how it found something cannot be audited. These are the routes that admitted this work.

aboutThe title or abstract carries a Canadian signal from the geographic lexicon.
no affNo Canadian affiliation: this work is invisible to an affiliation-only frame.
No Canadian affiliation. An affiliation-only frame, the usual design, would never have seen this work. It is one of the works that make the case for inverting the frame.

Bibliographic record

VenueFashion Theory · 2015
Typearticle
Languageen
FieldArts and Humanities
TopicFashion and Cultural Textiles
Canadian institutionsnot available
Fundersnot available
KeywordsJazzExhibitionPoliticsUrbanityModernization theoryVisual artsCultural historyThe artsUrban cultureArt historyHistoryArtSociologyAnthropologyPolitical scienceLawEngineering

Abstract

fetched live from OpenAlex

This article examines and contrast the fashion collections at three of Montreal's cultural institutions, the Musée McCord, an urban and historical museum that houses over 18,000 pieces of costume and textile artifacts; the Musée du Costume et du Textile du Québec, which owns and exhibits a collection of 8,000 items worn, collected, and donated by Quebecers and contemporary fashion by Montreal-based designers; and the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal, whose director Nathalie Bondil has made locally produced international fashion exhibitions one of the key points of its curatorial practice since 2008.Our goal is to show that even though Montreal is not considered a global fashion center like Paris, London, or New York, its fashion history and practices are inevitably tied to its urbanity, rapid modernization, its turbulent history, its vibrant culture, and its unique status as the largest French-speaking and bilingual city in North America. As such, the city fits in well with the other Urban Chic studies, that focus on Berlin and Vienna.The fashion collections at these institutions reveal insights into the city's cultural history and cosmopolitan trendiness as well. These collections reflect and support Montreal's identity as a cultural center—as the city of jazz, disco, Cirque du Soleil, festivals, etc. The collections reflect the city's social and political history, for example the labor conditions of the manufacturing industries. Finally, these collections tell us what role fashion plays in the everyday lives of people who live and work in this city, and what role fashion dialogues play in the urban imaginary of Montreal.This article is based on a chapter from our forthcoming book, Montréal Chic: A Locational History of Montreal Fashion (Intellect). Following the models of Berliner Chic: A Locational History of Berlin Fashion and Wiener Chic: A Locational History of Vienna Fashion, Montréal Chic approaches fashion as a lens through which urban culture, institutions, scenes, and subcultures can be analyzed and connected.

Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.

Full frame distilled prediction

Teacher imitation

Not calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.

metaresearch head score (Codex)0.000
metaresearch head score (Gemma)0.000
Version: codex-gemma-dda1882f352aValidation status: machine_predicted_unvalidated
Candidate categoriesInsufficient payload (model declined to judge)
Consensus categoriesnone
DomainCandidate signal: none · Consensus signal: none
Study designCandidate signal: Theoretical or conceptual · Consensus signal: none
GenreCandidate signal: Empirical · Consensus signal: Empirical
Teacher disagreement score0.916
Threshold uncertainty score0.999

Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category

CategoryCodexGemma
Metaresearch0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (narrow)0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (broad)0.0000.000
Bibliometrics0.0000.000
Science and technology studies0.0000.001
Scholarly communication0.0000.000
Open science0.0000.000
Research integrity0.0000.000
Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)0.0010.000

Machine scores (provisional)

The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.

Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.

Opus teacher head0.112
GPT teacher head0.286
Teacher spread0.175 · how far apart the two teachers sit on this one work
Validation statusscore_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it