Bibliographic record
Abstract
Synopsis Sandy beach and nearshore zones extend from the limits of wave action on the beach backshore offshore to the limit of the movement of sand on the bed by waves. These are the most dynamic of coastal systems and there is a continuous exchange of sediment between the two, driven by alternations between storm and fairweather conditions. Because even quite small waves are capable of moving sand, the continued presence of beaches reflects a dynamic equilibrium between processes that act to move sediments offshore and those that tend to move them onshore. On sandy coasts the profile normal to the coast tends towards an equilibrium form with slope decreasing exponentially offshore. The actual steepness of the profile is controlled primarily by grain size, with the slope decreasing with decreasing grain size. Repeated measurements over a period of years shows that the elevation of the bed can fluctuate over one or two metres or more close to shore, but that the amount of fluctuation or reworking by waves decreases into deeper water. This is a response to decreasing wave orbital motion with water depth and the decreasing frequency of storm events with waves large enough to move sediment in deeper water. The beach and nearshore profile may be smooth, or more often it is characterised by the presence of sand bars and associated troughs landward of them.
Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.
How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.001 | 0.002 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.003 | 0.002 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.002 |
| Research integrity | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.084 | 0.023 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".