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Record W2616082802

Colonial Complexions and Cosmetics: The Beauty of New Zealand Women

2016· other· en· W2616082802 on OpenAlexaboutno aff
Kirby‐Jane Hallum

Bibliographic record

VenueResearchSpace (University of Auckland) · 2016
Typeother
Languageen
FieldArts and Humanities
TopicFashion and Cultural Textiles
Canadian institutionsnot available
Fundersnot available
KeywordsCosmeticsBeautyColonialismArtMedicineHistoryAestheticsArchaeologyPathology
DOInot available

Abstract

fetched live from OpenAlex

In Leisure and Pleasure: Reshaping and Revealing the New Zealand Body 1900-1960 (2003), Caroline Daley acknowledges the rise of the body beautiful in New Zealand culture and argues that “as muscles and strength were to men, so, increasingly was beauty of face and form to women” (85). Recent years have witnessed the examination of the New Zealand body within the context of physical health and sport in a number of critical studies including Charlotte Macdonald’s Strong, Beautiful and Modern: National Fitness in Britain, New Zealand, Australia and Canada, 1935-1960 (2011). Such histories of twentieth-century New Zealand demonstrate the potential for making use of nineteenth-century beauty culture as an equally significant site for investigation. This paper will consider New Zealand women’s visibility within the nexus of changing standards for female beauty over the second half of the 19th century, focusing in particular on the tension between the pervasive influence of British and American beauty products and the emergent national identity of the healthy, robust and naturally beautiful New Zealand woman who began to inhabit the pages of local newspapers. “Nature has not made all women beautiful, but if it has endowed her with good taste and habits of cleanliness the chances are she will be a greater success in social and domestic circles than if she depended upon mere physical beauty alone” observed Louisa Alice Baker in the Ladies Pages of the Otago Witness in 1889. Baker’s weekly column was dedicated to topics of the day such as personal beautification and home decoration and contributed to public debates as to what constituted female beauty in the colony.

Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.

How this classification was reachedexpand

Full frame distilled prediction

Teacher imitation

Not calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.

metaresearch head score (Codex)0.000
metaresearch head score (Gemma)0.000
Version: codex-gemma-dda1882f352aValidation status: machine_predicted_unvalidated
Candidate categoriesInsufficient payload (model declined to judge)
Consensus categoriesnone
DomainCandidate signal: none · Consensus signal: none
Study designCandidate signal: Not applicable · Consensus signal: Not applicable
GenreCandidate signal: Other · Consensus signal: Other
Teacher disagreement score0.069
Threshold uncertainty score0.993

Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category

CategoryCodexGemma
Metaresearch0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (narrow)0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (broad)0.0000.000
Bibliometrics0.0000.000
Science and technology studies0.0000.001
Scholarly communication0.0000.000
Open science0.0000.000
Research integrity0.0000.000
Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)0.0270.000

Machine scores (provisional)

The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.

Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.

Opus teacher head0.038
GPT teacher head0.249
Teacher spread0.210 · how far apart the two teachers sit on this one work
Validation statusscore_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it

Classification

machine, unvalidated

Machine predicted; a candidate call from one teacher head, not a consensus.

Study designNot applicable
Domainnot available
GenreOther

How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".

Quick stats

Citations0
Published2016
Admission routes1
Has abstractyes

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