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Record W2954642086 · doi:10.32873/unl.dc.tsasp.0031

Threads, twist and fibre: Looking at Coast Salish Textiles

2019· article· en· W2954642086 on OpenAlexaff
Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa

Bibliographic record

VenueTextile Society of America Symposium Proceedings · 2019
Typearticle
Languageen
FieldArts and Humanities
TopicFashion and Cultural Textiles
Canadian institutionsVancouver Island University
Fundersnot available
KeywordsTextileWeavingWoolPrestigeGeographyEngineeringHistoryVisual artsArchaeologyArtMechanical engineering

Abstract

fetched live from OpenAlex

Coast Salish textiles are: remarkable for their quality; unusual in the fibres used; notable in their designs; singular in the innovative processes used to manufacture them. Salish textiles were determined by geography, shaped by trade, and influenced by colonization. That the textile tradition has survived is a reflection of the prestige they hold and the importance of the textiles in the Coast Salish culture. Relatively unknown and underappreciated, the older textiles deserve to be looked at with fresh eyes and modern methods that bring to light the outstanding abilities of the Coast Salish women in the creation of these important textiles. This paper looks at older blankets and robes in museum collections in Europe and North America and reviews the problems experienced in identifying the fibres used. In the last ten years or so, newer techniques such as scanning electron microscopes and proteomics have been developed that help identify the fibres used and allow us to look more closely at how the threads were created. Some of the surprising results have: verified oral histories of the use of Coast Salish woolly dog wool; demonstrated the importance of resource exploitation, textile technology, social networks and trade; shown changing techniques over time; and exposed the cultural importance of spinning and weaving spiritual protection into the textiles. A select number of textiles will be reviewed that demonstrate the types of textiles and their cultural importance; the fibres used including cedar, stinging nettles, the Coast Salish woolly dog wool, down feathers, cattail and fireweed fluff, and mountain goat; along with the different techniques and tools used to create the threads, and the stories of the fibres used.

Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.

How this classification was reachedexpand

Full frame machine prediction

Teacher imitation

Not calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.

metaresearch head score (Codex)0.001
metaresearch head score (Gemma)0.001
Version: metacan-v3-hybrid-931329e0061cValidation status: machine_predicted_unvalidated
Candidate categoriesnone
Consensus categoriesnone
DomainCandidate signal: none · Consensus signal: none
Study designCandidate signal: Not applicable · Consensus signal: none
GenreCandidate signal: Empirical · Consensus signal: none
Teacher disagreement score0.010
Threshold uncertainty score0.022

Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)

CategoryCodexGemma
Metaresearch0.0010.001
Meta-epidemiology (narrow)0.0010.000
Meta-epidemiology (broad)0.0000.000
Bibliometrics0.0050.004
Science and technology studies0.0030.006
Scholarly communication0.0040.007
Open science0.0010.002
Research integrity0.0020.002
Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)0.0070.001

Machine scores (provisional)

The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.

Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.

Opus teacher head0.010
GPT teacher head0.204
Teacher spread0.194 · how far apart the two teachers sit on this one work
Validation statusscore_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it

Classification

machine, unvalidated

Machine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.

The models applied no category: nothing in the taxonomy fit this work.
Study designNot applicable
Domainnot available
GenreEmpirical

How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".

Quick stats

Citations1
Published2019
Admission routes1
Has abstractyes

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