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Record W3050746621 · doi:10.1139/apnm-2020-0566

Cardiorespiratory demands of competitive rock climbing

2020· article· en· W3050746621 on OpenAlexvenueno aff
Nigel A. Callender, Tara N. Hayes, Nicholas B. Tiller

Bibliographic record

VenueApplied Physiology Nutrition and Metabolism · 2020
Typearticle
Languageen
FieldMedicine
TopicCardiovascular and exercise physiology
Canadian institutionsnot available
Fundersnot available
KeywordsCardiorespiratory fitnessClimbingHeart rateTidal volumeTreadmillVO2 maxVentilation (architecture)Respiratory minute volumeCardiologyPhysical therapyMedicineInternal medicineRespiratory systemEngineeringPhysicsMeteorologyBlood pressure

Abstract

fetched live from OpenAlex

Rock climbing has become a mainstream sport, contested on the Olympic stage. The work/rest pattern of bouldering is unique among disciplines, and little is known about its physiological demands. This study characterised the cardiorespiratory responses to simulated competition. Eleven elite boulderers (7 male) volunteered to participate (age = 23.3 ± 4.5 years; mass = 68.2 ± 9.7 kg; stature = 1.73 ± 0.06 m; body fat = 10.4% ± 5%). Subjects completed incremental treadmill running to determine maximal capacities. On a separate day, they undertook a simulated Olympic-style climbing competition comprising 5 boulder problems, each separated by 5 min of rest. Pulmonary ventilation, gas exchange, and heart rate were assessed throughout. Total climbing time was 18.9 ± 2.7 min. Bouldering elicited a peak oxygen uptake of 35.8 ± 7.3 mL·kg−1·min−1 (∼75% of treadmill maximum) and a peak heart rate of 162 ± 14 beats·min−1 (∼88% of maximum). Subjects spent 22.9% ± 8.6% of climbing time above the gas exchange threshold. At exercise cessation, there was an abrupt and significant increase in tidal volume (1.4 ± 0.4 vs. 1.8 ± 0.4 L; p = 0.006, d = 0.83) despite unchanged minute ventilation. Cardiorespiratory parameters returned to baseline within 4 min of the rest period. In conclusion, competitive bouldering elicits substantial cardiorespiratory demand and evidence of tidal volume constraint. Further studies are warranted to explore the effect of cardiorespiratory training on climbing performance. Novelty: Competitive bouldering evokes a high fraction of maximal oxygen uptake and prolonged periods above the gas exchange threshold. Climbing appears to impose a constraint on tidal volume expansion. Cardiorespiratory indices in elite climbers return to baseline within 2–4 min.

Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.

How this classification was reachedexpand

Full frame machine prediction

Teacher imitation

Not calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.

metaresearch head score (Codex)0.000
metaresearch head score (Gemma)0.000
Version: metacan-v3-hybrid-931329e0061cValidation status: machine_predicted_unvalidated
Candidate categoriesnone
Consensus categoriesnone
DomainCandidate signal: none · Consensus signal: none
Study designCandidate signal: Observational · Consensus signal: none
GenreCandidate signal: Empirical · Consensus signal: Empirical
Teacher disagreement score0.002
Threshold uncertainty score0.004

Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)

CategoryCodexGemma
Metaresearch0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (narrow)0.0000.000
Meta-epidemiology (broad)0.0000.000
Bibliometrics0.0000.000
Science and technology studies0.0000.000
Scholarly communication0.0000.000
Open science0.0000.000
Research integrity0.0000.000
Insufficient payload (model declined to judge)0.0010.000

Machine scores (provisional)

The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.

Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.

Opus teacher head0.015
GPT teacher head0.238
Teacher spread0.223 · how far apart the two teachers sit on this one work
Validation statusscore_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from it

Classification

machine, unvalidated

Machine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.

The models applied no category: nothing in the taxonomy fit this work.
Study designObservational
Domainnot available
GenreEmpirical

How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".

Quick stats

Citations8
Published2020
Admission routes1
Has abstractyes

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