The Cross‐Shore Component in the Vertical Structure of Wave‐Induced Currents and Resulting Offshore Transport
Bibliographic record
Abstract
Abstract A comprehensive field survey was conducted, and a numerical model based on the Princeton Ocean Model was established to investigate the vertical structure of current induced by surface waves and identify its effect on sand loss from a beach. Previous studies have examined wave‐induced longshore transport, whereas this study focused on cross‐shore transport caused by waves. The introduction of vertically dependent radiation stress revealed that wave‐induced vertical gyres existed with onshore and offshore flows in the upper and lower layers, respectively, besides the well‐known wave‐induced longshore flow. It was found that the vertical gyres were caused by the onshore wave force (a gradient of radiation stress) in the upper layer and the offshore wave force usually existed in the lower layer, as well as the horizontal imbalance of local wave force. The locations of wave‐induced vertical gyres were found to correspond to the location of sediment erosion, and thus the lower part of the vertical gyres drove the offshore transport of eroded sediment. Moreover, the vertical gyres were located in areas with a highly variable topographic gradient (e.g., at a bar), and their driven offshore currents (undertow/return flow) extended far beyond the surf zone. The topographic slope had a profound effect on the vertical structure. Numerical experiments showed that an extended breakwater from the eastern headland of the bay could prevent sediment from being eroded. Furthermore, the shear front at the rim of a horizontal gyre could retain suspended sediment in the center of the gyre.
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How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame distilled prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. Learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and 10,348 direct Gemma labels. Candidate is the union of thresholded teacher heads; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels or direct frontier model labels.
Codex and Gemma teacher scores by category
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Open science | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one teacher head, not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".