Survival After Being Wedged in a Crevasse for 16 Hours in Alaska
Bibliographic record
Abstract
We present a case of an un-roped mountaineer who fell into a crevasse during descent from the summit of Denali (Mount McKinley). He was wedged about 20 m deep in the crevasse for a total of 16 h; this included 4.5 h waiting for a rescue team to arrive, and an 11.5 h extrication process. His condition deteriorated and he eventually lost consciousness. Even though the rescue team collectively felt there was little or no chance of survival, they continued until the victim was extricated from the crevasse. He was almost immediately placed in a hypothermia wrap with active warming, loaded on a rescue helicopter, and transported for 1 h 40 min to a hospital in Fairbanks, Alaska. During the flight, he was placed on supplemental oxygen. He was cold to the touch; respiration was detectable, but a pulse was not, and he was responsive to verbal stimuli. Initial bladder temperature in hospital was 26.1°C. He was released from hospital after 14 d and made a full recovery. This case highlights an important mix of preventative and resuscitative lessons regarding crevasse rescue in an isolated location. The lessons include the dangers of travelling un-roped on a crevassed glacier, the challenges of extrication from a confined space, the fact that respirations are often more easily detected than pulses, an extended transport time to medical facilities, and the necessity of trying unorthodox extrication methods. This case emphasized the need to continue extrication and treatment efforts for a cold patient even when survival with hypothermia seems impossible.
Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.
How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.003 | 0.001 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.002 |
| Research integrity | 0.002 | 0.002 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.002 | 0.001 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".