A numerical model for predicting waves run-up on coastal areas
Bibliographic record
Abstract
In this study, numerical investigations are performed to validate a numerical model for the prediction of waves propagation and waves run-up on coastal zones. The proposed numerical model is based on the depth-averaged two-dimensional dispersive shallow water equations with source terms due to variable bottom topography and bed friction effects. We propose to solve the resulting nonlinear system using a well-balanced positivity preserving Godunov-type finite volume method on unstructured triangular grids. We used a semi-implicit scheme for the friction terms and a well-balanced formulation for the bottom topography. Moreover, we prove that the numerical scheme exactly preserves a class of nontrivial steady-state solutions. To validate the proposed numerical model against experiments, we first demonstrate its ability to preserve nontrivial steady-state solutions over a slanted surface and then we model several laboratory experiments for the prediction of waves run-up on sloping beaches. The numerical simulations are in good agreement with laboratory experiments which confirms the robustness and accuracy of the proposed numerical model in predicting waves propagation on coastal areas.
Fetched live from OpenAlex and de-inverted. Abstracts are not stored in this database: the inverted indexes are 8.6 GB of the frame’s 9.3 GB of text, and the host has 13 GB free.
How this classification was reachedexpand
Full frame machine prediction
Teacher imitationNot calibrated prevalence, not ground truth. Human validation pending. The Gemma side is a direct model label for every work in the frame, read from the title-only record. The Codex side is a classifier learned from the 10,348 direct Codex labels and calibrated to design-weighted sample rates; fields without enough sample support carry no Codex call. Candidate is the union of the two sides; consensus is their intersection. These outputs are machine_predicted_unvalidated and are not human labels.
Distilled classifier scores by category (both heads)
| Category | Codex | Gemma |
|---|---|---|
| Metaresearch | 0.000 | 0.001 |
| Meta-epidemiology (narrow) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Meta-epidemiology (broad) | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Bibliometrics | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Science and technology studies | 0.000 | 0.000 |
| Scholarly communication | 0.001 | 0.001 |
| Open science | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Research integrity | 0.001 | 0.000 |
| Insufficient payload (model declined to judge) | 0.001 | 0.000 |
Machine scores (provisional)
The two teacher heads of the student model, read on this work. A score orders the frame for review; it never asserts a category, and the validation status ships verbatim with every row.
Baseline scores from an immature model (maturity gate not passed, 7 training rounds). Scores rank; they never assert a category.
score_only:v0-immature-baseline · verbatim from the scoring run: score_only means the number may rank works, and no category label ships from itClassification
machine, unvalidatedMachine predicted; a candidate call from one source (direct Gemma or distilled Codex), not a consensus.
How this classification was reached, model by model and score by score, is at the end of the page under "How this classification was reached".